in which I turn my sewing machine into a serger…
2009 @ 9:21 am
A month or two ago I went crazy and bought about five new feet for my sewing machine. A little gift for treating me so nice lately. Today I tried out the Singer Sidecutter–the sew and serge foot. WHOA. This thing is cool. I have a Singer machine, FYI.
I decided today was the day to figure out how to use it–and to blog about it since it’s fresh in my mind. But what really brought it on? The fact that I want to make myself a dress and I don’t want to have tickle-y raw seams. For some reason I find this completely acceptable to put on my children, but I would rather have a finished edge, without the fussiness of french seams. Plus it’s officially summer–the less pressing the better! It’s all cut and ready to go (hi Jess!)
I’m going to translate the bizarro instructions into plain English, okay? I didn’t find much useful info on this foot and they don’t get the best reviews. I think, however, this may be due to lack of practice with the foot. I found some important things out pretty quickly.
Okay, putting the thing on. You take out the shank screw and remove the regular foot. When you install the side cutter, be sure that the fork shaped thing hooks over the needle screw before setting the foot onto the shank. This is is what makes mechanism for the knife move. Now set your machine to zig zag with a pretty narrow stitch setting.
Next, make a 2cm cut into your fabric about 1 cm from the edge. Set the fabric into the cutter, laying both sides of the fabric OVER the plastic bar. The knife should fall between the two pieces of fabric.
The edge to trim should be on the right. Set the fabric to be sewn so that it is under the foot and rests just before the needle. That way, the needle will grab the fabric as soon as you start. Okay you are ready. HOLD ON TO YOUR THREAD ENDS. And away we go. Slowly, at first.
(view from back of machine).
Pretty neat, right? You can see that this was my first attempt and my stitch was a bit loose. This will be EXCELLENT for preparing hems and using the blind hem stitch (and foot!). I am tired of pressing and finishing seams.
The next thing I tried was “serging” two pieces together. This is where I think some of the negative reviews come from, but stick with me, there is a solution, provided you have some fancier stitches on your machine.
Here is the result of using the zig zag stitch to finish a seam:
Booooooo. The stitching shows right through to the front! It needs a stabilizing straight stitch. Luckily, my machine has something called the Turkish Stitch. It’s basically a zig zig that has a straight stitch along either side.
There are a couple of other overcast stitches to choose from on my machine, but this is the only one that didn’t cause the needle to hit the plate. Be sure to test out any stitches by holding onto your thread and turning the hand wheel toward you.
The result is a beautiful, finished seam!
I do plan to practice more with this foot before I dive in to sewing the dress. I also may mark my stitch lines with soluble pen to be sure I’m getting the correct seam allowance. There are marks on the foot, but the cut side of the fabric tends to shift. I think this will be difficult to use as a seam guide without practice.
I hope this makes things easier for someone, someday!
*Want to see more detail…all photos are available in a larger format on Flickr.
More Smocking…
2009 @ 9:19 am
I’ve had some technical issues with the camera’s memory card. Our original card was corrupted and my Mac just wouldn’t read the new one. Ugh. In the meantime, I’ve finished a few things! I’m going to post my favorite first, even though it’s a repeat. I finished Maia’s Heather Ross Smocked Sundress (link to Martha Stewart Show demo) one evening while Maia and I were home without Cassie and Daddy. Unfortunately, Maia’s been sick with a fever for several days. We’ve missed some pretty fun stuff, but we’re dealing well.
The fabric for this dress was purchased at Brooklyn General a couple of years ago. It was in the vintage stack, but I think it’s more of a 70’s print. It’s got that unmistakable calico thing going on. The straps are made from double fold bias tape (1/4″) that is definitely vintage. When I started sewing a bought a lot from Ebay and this lovely peach was included. It was single-fold, but it’s easy enough to fold, press and stitch, isn’t it. I think the peach brightens up the dress. I did 7 lines of shirring on this dress (6 for Cassie) and tried it on to place the straps. I’ll be making a few more of these for nieces and friends as the summer progresses. Next time I’ll start the shirring 1″ from the folded top rather than from the top of the fabric. I’ve noticed it adds a nice ruffle to others finished dresses.
I do wish I had enough leftover for a matching bucket hat!
always check the errata…
2009 @ 8:16 am
Although in this case, I had more problems than the printed page can be held responsible for. Everything about this project was rushed–and I know myself better than to think it would be smooth sailing. Don’t I?
Baby Kimono by Heather Ross in Weekend Sewing
I traced the pattern to muslin a couple of weeks ago and apparently missed a bunch of markings (or did I?). Consequently, I sewed the sleeves on sideways–they should be short and square. I highly doubt any newborn could squeeze an arm into this thing–it would be awkward, to say the least. I made my own bias tape for this too… three separate times because, while the book calls for 18″ of tape, I needed 1+ yards. Argh. I’m also not sure the instructions for sewing the ties into the side seams is quite clear enough. It indicates you should sew both short ties to face the outside of the shirt. This would render it useless. I sewed as directed on one side and then sewed the other tie to the seam allowance of the opposite side. Hopefully someone will pick up on the errors for the next publishing…
I intend to try again, because even with these setbacks, I had a cute baby gift in a couple of hours! Can’t beat that. Plus I already have a few more cut 
sew, mama, sewing machine month
2009 @ 8:08 am
Sew, Mama, Sew’s blog has a nice meme about sewing machine’s this month and I thought I’d participate since things are going so well with my Futie over her…
What brand and model do you have?
I own a Singer Quantum Futura CE200 (called a Futie on the yahoo message boards!). It’s a full range sewing machine with quilting stitches plus embroidery machine.
How long have you had it?
I got this as a 30th birthday present from my husband in 2006. Notably, the same year daughter number 1 was born.
How much does that machine cost (approximately)?
I think it cost $700 at the time. I seem to recall redeeming a bunch of Amazon points from our credit card. We use those rewards exclusively for diapers now, *sigh*.
What types of things do you sew (i.e. quilting, clothing, handbags, home dec projects, etc.)?
I sew mostly little girl clothes. It’s so hard for me NOT to sew for little girls! I have two cute and willing young ladies in front of my all day long. This year, nay, THIS SUMMER I am committed to making something for myself to wear! I said this last year too, but it didn’t work out due to birth of baby and subsequent extra squish.
How much do you sew? How much wear and tear does the machine get?
I wouldn’t say this thing gets a lot of wear and tear. I am on a kick right now and since I’m still pretty new at sewing, I haven’t ventured too far from straight up cotton fabric. If I did more embroidery, I am sure there would be more wear and tear! I think this lady can handle it though.
Do you like/love/hate your machine? Are you ambivalent? Passionate? Does she have a name?
We are in like with each other. Straight up, 4th grade LIKE. The kind of feeling you have when you are not sure how you feel because you just don’t know enough. I like it, but I have not named it, although I guess I think she’s a “lady”. This is an improvement though since I think last year was full of love/hate moments! Now that I know the machine better, I think it was me the whole time. I even bought her some presents last week. A variety of new feet that I’ll blog about as I try them out.
What features does your machine have that work well for you?
This machine beeps at me for the slightest sewing infraction! Did I forget to put the presser foot down? BEEP BEEP BEEP. Thread broken? BEEP BEEP BEEP! I sort of like that it just shuts down before I can screw anything up. With regard to the sewing itself, I assumed that all Singer machines sounded like my mother’s, but this one doesn’t. You push the pedal, it goes. On my mom’s (and other models I’ve seen since), there is a lead in bzzzzzzz, before the thing takes off. As a new sewer, this would trip me up. Another thing I like about my machine? Its clear presser foot. Muy helpful.
Is there anything that drives you nuts about your machine?
Said beeping can also drive me a little nuts. Especially if I can’t figure out what’s wrong!
Do you have a great story to share about your machine (i.e., Found it under the Christmas tree? Dropped it on the kitchen floor? Sewed your fingernail to your zipper?, Got it from your Great Grandma?, etc.!)? We want to hear it
There are no great stories… maybe this is why I only “like”, instead of “love” my machine.
Would you recommend the machine to others? Why?
I would only recommend it if you think you’ll be into the embroidery thing. I totally was, but then I went Mac and my old laptop died. I am patiently waiting for my mom to give me her old one so I can get back into it!
What factors do you think are important to consider when looking for a new machine?
I would make sure it’s something you can grow into. And if you are sewing children’s clothes, those decorative stitches can come in very handy! I guess I wouldn’t go whole hog if you aren’t sure you will sew for life. I mean, you can knock Signer all you want, but it’s much less expensive to maintain than the imported brands. I have used their helpline too and it was awesome.
Do you have a dream machine?
I really don’t! I guess I dream of a serger, but really? I probably won’t ever go there. We are literally drowning in little girl clothes over here. I think I have a machine that is just right for me 
Maybe we will fall in love someday!
Heather Ross magic
2009 @ 8:23 am
I bought Heather Ross’s latest book, Weekend Sewing, a few weeks ago and have been dying to try her signature “elastic in the bobbin” smocking trick. Two years ago I tried another smocking technique and it was really difficult (for a combination of reasons). Maybe this doesn’t seem crazy to seasoned sewers, but for me, it was a little daunting. What if something went wrong? Ms. Ross even did a demo over at my favorite shop, the Brooklyn General Store. Unfortunately, I couldn’t attend. Mary, though, went absolutely smocking crazy after that workshop. Since she knows her way around a sewing machine on a professional level, I had to start believing. And then another good friend decided she wanted to make that dress for her daughter’s first birthday and things started rolling…
We spent the afternoon corralling babies and trying to thread her sewing machine. Unfortunately, without the manual neither of us was able to do it, although we did have fun trying! When I got home and put Cassie down for bed, I got right to business with a piece of scrap fabric. 14″ of scrap, to be exact. I pressed, I marked and I wound the bobbin. I needed a pin to pull the thread through to sew, but i was ready. And, it worked! Sewing went off without a hitch.And then the magic–a little water and a hot iron and that puppy shrunk right up.
It required some smoothing out of the fabric as you continued along the (6) lines for stitching, but it was far easier than the last method I tried.
Look out daughters, nieces, and friends… this is bound to become a gift item! A dress in one night? I never would have guessed I’d see this day. Next? Some bloomers to match.
Some Serious “Girly Style”
2009 @ 7:08 am
My second (and third) successful project from the Japanese pattern book, Girly Style Wardrobe, is complete! I just joined the Japanese Sewing flickr group–awesome stuff. I am extremely pleased with the results–these tops came out almost exactly as I envisioned. One is for Maia and the other will be gifted to her bff.
(sorry for the camera phone shot)
I think my only regret is that I used green thread for the whole project instead of choosing a lighter color for use on the dove fabric. Pretty minor complaint. There were no major roadblocks, the instructions were very clear and my machine behaved superbly (which probably says more about my comfort level with sewing than the machine itself).
This was the first time I made my own bias tape. I spent 5x as much time wondering how it was going to go than actually making the stuff. Next time I will approach with NO FEAR–it was easy! I have one of those handy Clover bias tape makers. It makes 1″ bias tape or 1/2″ double fold bias tape. If you have one and lost the directions, like I inevitably will, You SEW Girl has a great demo. Or if you don’t want another thing to keep track of, Creative Little Daisy has a GREAT way of making your own tape using a single pin. So cool.
Oh, one more thing: sz 100 cm is decidedly 4T. So, these will fit better in 2010… oh well.
A new japanese sewing book
2009 @ 7:13 am
So, I have no idea what it’s called, since it’s all in Japanese, but it is UNBELIEVABLY cute. I can’t wait to make things from this book! It starts at sz 90, which is smaller that the Girly Style book I have. I think 90 is what fits Maia right now. hoooorrah!
ISBN: 978-4-529-04437-0
That cover dress is too much… I’m getting right on it!
Birthday Girls
2009 @ 7:50 am
When Maia was one, i asked my mother to make her a dress for her birthday party. In our house, the first birthday is a BIG DEAL. Maia’s party had at least 80 people in attendance. This year, to mark Cassie’s first birthday we held a similar party, although thanks to the weather I think there were only about 60 people there. I could tell by how much cake was leftover, even with most people taking seconds
Once again, I asked my mother to make a dress, this time for Cassie. I had already started one for Maia (since they are so close we will be sharing parties for a few years) and hoped there would be enough fabric left over for them to be matchy matchy. There was!
Maia LOVED her dress from fabric to finish. I involved her in the sewing process by letting her pin scraps while I sewed it. I know, barely three years old playing with pins. Don’t call the authorities, she has extremely good fine motor skills. I feel so lucky to have a daughter than is genuinely excited about the things I make for her. Hope it lasts a while!
The fabric is a print from who knows where. Maybe Michael Miller? I picked it up at Hartsdale Fabrics when Maia was a baby. Maia’s dress is another Simple Servant Frock by Sugar City (no longer available-boo!) and Cassie’s is New Look 6476. I did not put the ruffle into Maia’s version of the Frock and, as you can see, skipped all the cornball applique on Cassie’s dress too. Maia’s dress has cute little flower buttons on the corner and Cassie has nice round pink ones. I bought both buttons at The Quilt Cottage in Mamaroneck, NY.
There was a bit of a wardrobe malfunction on the day of the party so I called some back-up; the experience costume seamstress, Jennifer, kindly sewed Maia’s undershirt to her frock to avoid flashing. Without the ruffle, the neckline is rather low. I suppose I could have pitched up the corners a bit more, but I was worried about it fitting over Maia’s head. This is still size 2 and she grew while the dress was in process. EEEEKS.
I can’t believe this baby is already 1 year old. And now sleeps through the night–yay!
Thank you for my dress Mima!
April Off…
2009 @ 8:39 am
So, let’s just say I took the month of April off. I’m going to attempt to post once per week for the next three months–will I get my mojo back? Only one way to find out! I have to admit, the (small) ad check from BlogHer did motivate a little. A few dollars in the paypal account will do wonders for the crafty budget. The other motivation is that I realize I have a bunch of stuff to show off! I’ve got lots of projects to be pleased about and I want to share–yay!
So, let’s start with some sewing, since Spring is now fully upon us. Here is my Burda Style 9625 tunic for Maia. The fabric is a Folklore print. Just a plain old cotton, although lighter in weight than most quilting cottons.
I confess that this pattern called for jersey and I can see why. I didn’t have any on hand and am determined to use what I have, but the fit is a little stiff around the shoulders/yoke. I still love it though!
I used some top stitching around the keyhole opening and the sleeves. Why have all these fancy stitches if you aren’t going to use them? I also used prefab double fold bias tape instead of making my own. Someday, actually soon, I’ll have the balls to try that The pattern was challenging for me because of the cap sleeve. I rearranged the steps as per a knitting pattern: sew shoulders, set in sleeve, sew down arm and side seam. Most sewing patterns, in my limited experience, have to sew the side seam and then set the sleeve. I am sure there is a small repercussion for my shortcut, btu I can’t tell what it is. The Japanese patterns I have seen are all constructed this way.
I did this project as a sew-a-long with a college friend who lives in Charlotte, NC. We aren’t able to see each other very often and have thankfully developed a hobby in common. It was really fun talking to her about it through the sewing process. I can’t show you her’s, unfortunately, but suffice to say, it is adorable! She even made the matching pants.
More to come!
Another Finished Sewing Project
2009 @ 10:40 am
I’m declaring this one ALL DONE even though I never did the planned applique. It’s a Simple Servant Frock from Sugar City. I love those ladies and their super cute kid fashion sense. Their patterns are so versatile! I made a size 3, but I am a bit concerned it will be too small for my niece. Especially since I waited eons to mail it out. You can probably tell that the bias binding and lace insert are completely screwed up. It was my first time using bias tape and despite many fabulous tutorials, I messed it up. I am a better knitter than seamstress. Hope the gal doesn’t mind.
(sorry for the blur)
Fabrics are from Brooklyn General (the last of a blue, somewhat stretchy, velvet) and a “My Folklore” print. This was mailed off with the blue scarf and Boheme from a previous post. Since I didn’t plan to gift them together, the coordinating color is a complete, and happy, fluke! Happy sisterhood Charlotte and Winslow!
